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All martial equipment should be treated with care because of the danger. Even "safer" practice weapons must be treated with respect of the danger in order to create good habits and discipline.

• Blade safety
• Blade maintenance
• Wood maintenance

Blade safety

Some rules of thumb about handling blades.

• If you are handing your blade to someone who does not know how to handle a blade, then it is your responsibility to tell them.
• If you hand a blade to someone, then give them the hilt or scabbard first.
• Never touch the blade with your bare hands because moisture, salt, and body oils are bad for the blade.
• If inspecting the blade perpendicularly, then hold the hilt with one hand and use the scabbard, sleeve, a cloth, or the like to support the blade. If you have none of that then use your (gasp!) thumbnail at the blade.
• Do not breath or even come close to breathing on the blade.
• Do not point the blade at other people unless you have full intent to do so.
• When waiting around with a blade (esp. during class), do not flourish it or point it in odd directions. Keep it sheathed or point down.
• Avoid laying your blade on the ground where it can pick up dirt, moisture, etc.

Blade maintenance

• Do not allow your blade to rust or have the possibility of rusting. At least wipe it dry after using it.
• Blade maintenance should be done every 2 weeks during usage. During periods of non-usage, once every 6 months is fine.
• The Japanese sword maintenance process is basically as follows:
  1. Wipe with nuguigami paper (or a cloth) to remove old oil.
  2. Apply uchiko (whetstone powder) from a cloth sack.
  3. Wipe to remove more oil.
  4. Swipe with new abura (aka choji) applied with abura-nugishi paper (or a different cloth).
• Recommended oils:
  • Choji is 99% mineral oil and 1% clove oil for scent.
  • Mineral oil is a great oil for blade care. FYI: Baby oil is mineral oil with perfume.
  • Some people also use olive oil but olive oils may vary.
  • Some people use gun oil.
  • I do not recommend WD-40.
  • Some people store their swords with Renaissance Wax (like many museums).
• Do not store your blade in a sheath or scabbard since that may trap moisture on the blade.
• If you must remove rust from a blade, use a fine grit sand paper (such as 400 or greater) or bone.
• Unless you are a professional, do not do sharpen or remove rust from an antique blade because you will reduce its integrity and worth.
• Unless you are a professional, do not sharpen you blade.

Wood maintenance

This section is concerned with the treatment and care of wooden weapons and martial equipment but this info can very easily apply to wooden furniture.

• Wood is cut, shaped, turned, worked, etc. Then it is sanded and dusted. The wood is then either left natural or stained for color.
• Wood is frequently either varnished (clear), painted (pigmented), or waxed. to provide a hard durable finish. Wooden weapons are usually varnished but may have small areas painted for aesthetics.
  • Natural varnishes consist of gum or resin (such as amber, copal, or rosin) dissolved in a solvent.
    • Alcohol-solvent varnish. Aka: spirit varnishes.
    • Turpentine-solvent varnish.
    • Oil-solvent varnish. The oils are called drying oils. Synthetic oils are used but walnut oil and linseed oil are famous natural drying oils.
  • Synthetic varnishes include urethane, polyurethane, epoxy varnishes, and water-solvent varnishes. Polyurethane does not penetrate into the wood like natural varnishes.
  • Paints come in a huge variety.
  • Waxes  come in a large variety, including beeswax.
• Wooden weapons are usually maintained by keeping them away from extreme heat or cold, dry of water, dust free, and lightly oiled. The oil repels moisture and keeps the wood supple. After much use the weapon may need re-varnishing.
  • Recommended oils:
    • Mineral oil. Cheap and highly effective.
    • Boiled linseed oil. Rags steeped in linseed oil can self-ignite and thus should be washed or disposed of properly.
    • Tung oil. An ancient oil that was used on boats.

Similar rules apply to maintaining wood floors.

• Grit is the enemy of wood floors.
  • Dust or vacuum frequently.
  • Use dirt trapping mats, throw rugs, etc.
• Wood and water don't mix:
  • For un-waxed floors, use damp (not dripping) mopping.
  • For waxed floors, you can't use even a damp mop.
  • Don't leave standing water. Water can creep into the cracks.
• Use floor glides on your furniture.
• Wipe spills promptly.

2007-10-16 19:48:53Z